The siding of your house is likely to get damage or wear off with time despite the material that has been used to make it. A strong and durable siding is approximated to stand still for about 10 to 50 years, but this does not necessarily mean that it cannot get damaged. In such instances, there is always the need to have the damaged siding repaired or replaced completely depending on the extent of the damage. Every siding material has its repair techniques as described below.
Cracked vinyl should not give a reason to despair. The repairs can be done within 15-minutes. If you are wondering how vinyl siding repair is done, then this is how. By use of a zip tool, you unzip the damaged piece of vinyl and snap in a new one. You insert the zip tool under the vinyl until you feel that it has hooked the bottom lip. You then pull out the broken tool while using your elbow to prevent the unbroken pieces from getting damaged. You then nail in the new piece in and ensure that its lower lip locks with the bottom part. Ensure that you leave a space of 1/32 inches between the nail and the siding to ensure the easy movement of the vinyl. The nails should not be fastened tightly to avoid the siding from buckling up once it gets warm. It is important to note that vinyl repair is done in warm weather as compared to cold weather which may cause it to become less flexible and may crack. The materials and tools needed for this project are the pry bar and the zip tool.
Wood or hardboard siding if well installed and maintained can last for 30 to 40 years. On the other hand, if the installation wasn't properly done, some areas may start to rot after a few years and especially near the foundation. Repairing the rotten pieces requires a few basic tools and materials. The cost of wooden siding is not that high, and therefore it is much worth to replace the whole course. This helps you in avoiding unexpected butt joints.
To repair this type of siding you need: a hammer, tape measure, circular saw, caulk gun, drill/driver, level, drill bit set, extension cord, extension ladder, pry bar, sawhorses, speed square, scribing tool, and utility knife. The materials needed are 10d Galvanized box nails, Paintable Acrylic latex caulk, and replacement boards.
Prime the edges and back of the new siding and thoroughly paint all the exposed grooves and edges. Caulk any nail heads that may break the paper face to avoid soaking of water by the siding. You should leave a gap of 1/8 inches between the butt and corner joints and seal the joints with paintable acrylic late caulk. Put gutter to prevent water splashing and ensure that you have a good flashing along the shingles joint. On the rotten areas, you can replace them with fiber-cement siding. It is thinner than most hardboard with 1/8 in. and is highly resistant to rot and the price is comparable.
While metal sidings are the most durable, they are also susceptible to damage. In a case where the aluminum-soffits are loosely fixed, they tend to make much noise when the wind blows. This is a problem that can be easily solved. You require a screen spline, extension ladder, a stepladder, and a plastic putty knife.
While aluminum soffits are maintenance free and have an assortment of colors, and easy to install, they can be extremely noisy. To tighten the loosened soffits, you use a plastic putty knife and insert the screen spline between the aluminum and the soffit. Push in the screen mold far to enable its visage from the ground but avoid it getting past the soffits end.
At times, the metal may be scratched or due to harsh weather develop a chalky residue or even it can fade. This means you need to repaint it. The only secret towards achieving a clean aluminum siding is by using 100% acrylic latex paint. Avoid painting a metal siding if it is getting direct sunlight as metal absorbs heat fast. Metal replacement can be relatively expensive, and therefore it would be preferable if the necessary repairs are made, and high maintenance observed.
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